PVC Windows and Doors

A PVC profile is made up of hollow chambers; as the number of chambers increases, the air pockets hold heat better. Five- and six-chamber profiles and widths of 70 mm and above make a clear difference in insulation. Wall thickness determines the profile's strength; a thin profile sags in large sashes. The galvanised reinforcement steel inside the profile should also be asked about; a profile without steel or with thin steel changes shape over the years. Having these written into the quote makes comparison possible.

Double glazing is enough for most homes; when a heat-control coating and gas filling are added, the insulation improves noticeably. Triple glazing makes sense in colder climates, in homes with heavy street noise or on north-facing elevations; the sash gets heavier and the profile needs to be of a class that can carry it. For a noise problem, choosing panes of different thicknesses can be more effective than triple glazing. Tell the installer which way the home faces and what your problem is.

Some plaster and render falling away around the frame is normal; a good installer keeps it to a minimum but cannot eliminate it. After removal, plaster repair and an architrave are done on the inside, and silicone and, if needed, render correction on the outside. Whether this repair is included in the price should be clearly stated in the quote. If you are planning painting work, replacing the windows before painting is the right order.

Yes; installation takes about an hour per window and the home is open for only a short while. Installers usually do the rooms one after another, so the whole home does not cool down at once. On a rainy day applying the exterior silicone and foam becomes difficult; the installer keeps an eye on the weather. Because demand is low in the winter months, the production time can be shorter; spring and early summer are the busiest period.